Mese: Aprile 2017

The ‘Samedi de Quasimodo’ or in other words, the Saturday of Quasimodo, has by now become celebrated in the Canton of Valais and likewise in the Aosta Valley, despite being beyond the Alps. It is a day dedicated to the Via Francigena which takes place on the 22nd April.
Every year this day of ‘Samedi’, or rather the first Saturday after Easter, is dedicated to reviewing the Via Francigena, a check that is conducted along a brief segment of the walk, a part that by foot is an arduous and geographically demanding passage. Sigeric’s Via Francigena is still seen as a common thread between European communities and countries: the Italian Aosta Valley and Swiss Canton of Valais, united by the historical itinerary, collaborate to conserve the route as best as possible.

On the 22 nd April the group ‘Amicale des Compagnons de la Via Francigena Valais – Vallée d’Aoste’ organised the event, guided by the President, Bernard Delasoie. The European Association of the Vie Francigene participated in the initiative, as it does every year and at the end of the trek at Bourg-Saint- Pierre, the President of the association, Massimo Tedeschi, greeted and thanked the participants for their spirit towards this initiative.

 

The traced route took place entirely in the Canton of Valais, its course extending to the slopes of the Alps. Along the route one may enjoy striking panoramas: snow-clad peaks, framed by steep slopes and chalets that follow one after the other throughout the trek. Nature dominates the surroundings and renders the route pleasant and less demanding to complete, in fact one may even spot some deer that calmly watch the pilgrims, who proceed along the Valley.

Once again the event was extremely successful and revealed itself to be a valuable occasion to unite the communities through which the route passes. As well as the many Friends who, throughout the years have only increased in number, the company was joined by: Willy Fellay, the former President of the association and now honorary member; Daniel Maret, the Sub-Prefect of the Entremont district; Stève Lattion, the President of Liddes; Gilbert Tornare, the President of Bourg-Saint- Pierre; Joseph Voutaz, parish priest of Orsières and the valdostana; Palmira Orsieres, Friend of the Via Francigena, as well as the AEVF members of staff, Christian Schüelé and Luca Faravelli.

The next meeting is scheduled for the 2 nd September at the Great St. Bernard Pass in order to celebrate the 20 th Anniversary of the Association of the ‘Amicale des Compagnons de la Via Francigena’. It will therefore be fitting to once again unite the Italian and Swiss authorities who are working hard to improve and conserve this Cultural Itinerary of the Council of Europe.

Luca Faravelli

Watch the video on vimeo.

I walked for four days along the Via Francigena, in the segment from Bolsena to Capranica (in the area of Viterbo). I was together with 18 other people. Old and new acquaintances, united by the will to share a starting point, a journey and a destination.One step at a time. Hot, fatigue, sweat and blisters permitting. You stay together a lot, walking. And you stay alone a lot, too. Which allows the time, and the space, to breathe. To expand, to narrow. To then become something different from the usual time and the usual space. While you always go forward, on a more or less straight line, the thoughts follow their own courses, sometimes very alternative, intersecting as they wish and in every direction with the thoughts, expressions and emotions of others, in order to weave new and unpredictable plots. Sometimes, also incomprehensible. A map rather thick with emotions and anecdotes and experiences and words and silences that doesn’t exist anywhere else if not there, in that moment. Half hour after half hour. From stage to stage. Within the route. Easier to say than to try explaining, indeed.

The “rhythm” of the walk, however, seems to have nothing to do with the one of the real world. Even if it happens in the real world. News, text messages, phone calls, notifications that arrive during the walk seem almost clashing with the rhythm of the steps. They intersect badly with the surprising fresh air given by the shadow of a tree. They don’t surprise more than a sudden blast of wind. Or a small cramp in the back. Everything inevitable seems to become almost more redundant and lighter. In some ways, even more tolerable. Even if there are people who race to establish who is going to drop the biggest bomb; who modifies democracy to make it a dictatorship as much as possible; who keep sailing away from the usual war to land in the usual indifference. One who swear to come back and maybe who will and one who goes away forever and will never come back. Everything seems to go forward and to flow, as if it was easier than it really is. Along the whole space and for all the time needed. Inside every possible thought. A step after the other.

Filippo D’Arino

Source: La Stampa

The Francigena, the road that connects Canterbury with Rome in an about 1800 km path, is very appreciated on social networks in its Siena section. According to a study of the French University of Lille, in collaboration with the European Association of the Vie Francigene, which launched the project “The typologies of numerical cultural heritage. The case study of the Via Francigena” there is a boom of posts of travellers along this ancient route.

The research analysed the posts and interactions of pilgrims, walkers, tourists, institutions published between August 2015 and the end of June 2016 on Instagram and Twitter, from which it appears that the posts dedicated to just the Siena section of the via on Instagram are 4619 and the tweets are 7188. The study has been presented this morning at the museum of Santa Maria della Scala, one of the landing points of travellers of the road, by the president of the European Association Massimo Tedeschi and the executive director Luca Bruschi.

The study highlights another fact. The one that says that the Tuscany Francigena, a total of 380 km, is strongly growing in fame on social networks and that Siena has indeed a particular important role. During the occasion, the assessor for tourism of the Municipality of Siena Sonia Pallai displayed the enhancement initiatives of the via. Each Sunday, from the 7^th May to 25^th June and from 3^rd September to 15^th October, #Siena Francigena comes back, the urban trekking within the walls in 10 stages in just as many places crossed by the via. Moreover, two trips outside the walls of the County Seat are planned: the first in Monteriggioni, North from the city on the 6^th May and the second one in Ponte d’Arbia, South from the city on the 27^th May.

Source: Agi.it

Attached it is possible to find the press release on the project with the University of Lille and the Siena section

“So many pearls that keep together this beautiful necklace made of a dense network of people and villages. And there’s so much passion! And then the communication afterwards!’

These sentiments expressed by Luca Bruschi, Director of the European Association of the Via Francigena, capture the essence of the pilgrimage.

The Via Francigena route is based on a travel diary written in 990 AD by Archbishop Sigeric. He travelled from Canterbury to Rome to receive his Pallium from the Pope and on his return noted 79 places where he rested.

Last year I made the entire pilgrimage from Canterbury to Rome and received the Pilgrim’s Testimonium. But, my pilgrimage was not just about receiving this treasured document. As Luca says the real joy is in being part of the network of people and the communication afterwards. For me, it is like a new beginning!

When I returned to Australia after my pilgrimage my passion for the Via Francigena intensified. So, I ended up back in Italy and Switzerland a mere four months later. My aim was to spend more time in the 7 places where Sigeric rested in Switzerland.

The itinerary map rather beautifully displays, like pearls on a string, the towns and villages that run through the Swiss Via Francigena.

Orbe

Orbe was the last place in Switzerland (LV or 55) where Sigeric rested on his way back to Canterbury. It is an ancient Roman and Medieval town that still has Roman mosaics, ancient Swiss bridges and my favourite Swiss wine, Gamay.

On my recent visit, I walked for several hours along the Via Francigena pathways near Orbe and enjoyed the solitude of the Swiss countryside. My only companions were green and golden pastures dotted with tiny villages and the purple glow of the distant snow clad Jura Alps!

In Sigeric’s day, major crossroads passed through Orbe and would have been packed with travellers, and a few centuries later, with pilgrims. But, I had it all to myself!

Romainmôtier Abbey

Eventually, I ended up at Romainmôtier Abbey! It has the oldest Romanesque church in Switzerland, and was established in the10th century by Cluny monks. But, there is evidence that the church was built in 10 stages going right back to the 1^st century. I did enjoy seeing the amazing Romanesque columns, capitals and frescoes!

After my walk I was badly in need of a cup of tea! So, I headed straight for the orange Tea House building – once the Abbey Priory. My pot of tea was truly refreshing, alongside a big bowl of local Swiss vegetable soup with bread and a huge plate of cheese.

I had true insight into how grateful medieval pilgrims must have felt to sit and eat this same fare!

Lausanne

Lausanne, Sigeric’s resting place (LIV or 54), is located on Lac Léman (Lake Geneva). So, I decided to walk up the steep slopes from the Lake to the Cathedral. The walk is well worth it for the vistas of the city and views to the Lake and Alps – but did result in blistered feet!

Lausanne’s 12th Century Gothic Notre Dame Cathedral is as popular today as it was for medieval pilgrims. It has many amazing features. I love the polychrome figures in the Painted Portal, the belfry and 13th century rose windows.

I managed to locate the Church of St Francis and feeling very weary after the walk, I was reluctant to go in. I tried to take a photo of the labyrinth on the door, but it kept opening. I figured St Francis was inviting me in to pray!

Later in the afternoon, I decided to walk to Vevey (Sigeric’s 53rd resting place). This was a little ambitious given the blisters and the fact that it is a four-hour walk. Fortunately, I had my sketchbook and pencils. So, I found a great spot to sit and sketch the Alps and watch the sun set.

Vevey glowed brightly in the distance, as did the vineyards of Lavaux. Then, as the light faded, I headed off to sample the local Lavaux wine and some Swiss-Italian cuisine!

Aigle

Leaving Lac Léman the Via Francigena goes through the Alp encased Rhône valley. Sigeric rested in a small village near Aigle (LII or 52). This village is beautiful with its winding streets, the Napolean Bridge, Castle and surrounding vineyards and towering Alps.

The Abbey of Saint-Maurice

Another place in the Rhône Valley where Sigeric rested is the Abbey of Saint-Maurice (LI or 51). It is mid-way between Canterbury and Rome and has been a place of continual prayer, ‘laus perennis’, for over 15 centuries. In 2015 there were big celebrations for its 1500th anniversary.

This place is definitely a ‘pearl’ with so much to see! I loved visiting the Basilica, the archaeological site, the catacombs, the treasury and the cloisters.

Visiting this Abbey made me think of the fellow pilgrim I met last year. During that visit, I expressed that I was hoping to go back to France to see places I had missed. But, he very sternly reminded me that the way forward to Rome was so much better. I carried this piece of advice all the way to Rome, and into my daily life, making decisions that move me forward, not backwards. This has been a very big change for me!

Orsières

The Via Francigena ascends steeply into the Alps at Martigny, arriving at Orsières (Sigeric’s rest place L or 50). I do enjoy wandering through the ancient streets, eating in the Café des Alpes and admiring the medieval belfry of the Saint-Nicolas’ church.

Bourg Saint-Pierre

Bourg Saint-Pierre, at an altitude of 1632 m is the next place (LIX or 49) where Sigeric rested. In 810 it had a monastery dedicated to Saint Peter catering for pilgrims. The Romanesque belfry and the hotel where Napoleon dined are great to see.

At Bourg Saint-Pierre there is a tunnel through to Italy. At an altitude of 2473 m, Grand St Bernard Pass is only accessible 2 to 4 months of the year. So, walking the Via Francigena is quite limited here.

Grand Saint-Bernard Pass

I have been fortunate to visit Grand Saint-Bernard Pass several times. Last year, in October, we had our Pilgrim Credentials stamped at the Hospice. We received a true pilgrim’s welcome, with a warm bowl of soup, and a visit to the Chapel and Museum.

Outdoors, there is an ancient Roman road and a lake beyond which marks the Italian border and of course, St Bernard standing guard over the path to Rome and St Peter’s!

Carol Neville

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Travelling the Via Francigena

For more information on the Via Francigena visit the official website https://www.viefrancigene.org/en/.

There are more photographs and information on Carol’s website http://www.carolneville.com.au. Please contact Carol through her website if you wish to join an event in Italy or attend an information evening.