“Is it possible to cross the Great St Bernard Pass in winter? When does the road close? Where can you stay overnight?” To answer these and many other questions, the Communication Team of the Via Francigena ventured to the snow-covered Great St Bernard Pass. ❄️

In this article, we’ll share our unforgettable experience along the winter Via Francigena in Switzerland: a snowshoeing trek to the 2,473-meter-high Great St Bernard Pass with an overnight stay at the Great St Bernard Hospice. Discover our guide! 👀 📖

The Swiss stretch of the Via Francigena is undoubtedly one of the most picturesque segments of Sigeric’s route. From the Jura highlands to the village of Bourg-Saint-Pierre, the 210 km trail divided into 10 stages culminates in the most scenic conclusion: the Great St Bernard Pass. The Pass, situated 2,473 metres above sea level, is the highest point along the 3,200 km of the Via Francigena and, near the Great St. Bernard Lake, marks the end of the Swiss section of the route and its entrance into Italy. The legendary Great St Bernard Hospice watches over the travelers. For nearly a thousand years, it has provided a safe haven for pilgrims, adding to the magical and evocative atmosphere of this location.

Although known to most, the truth is that not everyone knows that this point on the Via Francigena can be reached practically all year round, provided that the necessary precautions are taken and that the journey is approached with prudence and seriousness.

Accompanied by Gaëtan Tornay – Vice President of the European Association of the Via Francigena ways (EAVF), President of the Swiss Association of the Via Francigena (SAVF), and Director of the Pays du St-Bernard Tourist Office – Nicole Franciolini and Simona Spinola from the EAVF Communication Team set off on an adventure to discover the Grand Saint Bernard in winter.

In this article, we’ll share how it went, answering the many questions we’ve received: whether you’re planning a winter expedition or are simply curious about life at the highest point of the Via Francigena, we’re confident this guide to the Great St Bernard in winter is just what you were looking for!

⚠️ Disclaimer! We can’t stress this enough: the ascent to the Great St Bernard Pass is possible and unforgettable but should not be underestimated. If you’re planning to go in the winter months, remember that this is high mountain territory. Always venture with awareness and extreme caution, following the advice gathered in this guide.

⚠️ Disclaimer 2.0! When we talk about winter in this area, we refer to a period much longer than the months traditionally considered “winter.” The winter season at the Grand St Bernard corresponds to snowfall, roughly from mid-October to early June. The summer season, in contrast, aligns with the four months when the road over the pass is open, approximately mid-June to mid-October.

Let’s start!

1. A bit of geography

The Great St Bernard Pass (Col du Grand Saint-Bernard in French) is a mountain pass in the Pennine Alps connecting the Italian Valle del Gran San Bernardo (part of the Aosta Valley region) with the Entremont Valley in Switzerland. This natural crossroads between the two nations is Switzerland’s third-highest road pass (2,473 m above sea level) and is located in the municipality of Bourg-Saint-Pierre in the Canton of Valais (Canton du Valais in French, the official language of the canton).

Our journey to uncover the secrets of the winter Via Francigena in Switzerland begins in Orsières, a town at the foot of the Mont Blanc massif. Orsières hosts the Pays du St-Bernard tourist office and marks the endpoint of stage 9 of the Via Francigena (Martigny – Orsières).

2. A bit of history

As you might imagine, this place is far more than just a typical mountain pass. The Col du Grand Saint-Bernard isn’t merely a geographic, historical, and political boundary that brings order to the rugged peaks of these breathtakingly beautiful mountains – it’s much more. It’s a passage steeped in history, where we, privileged travellers of the 21st century, can pause and marvel at the traces of its millennia-long past. This is not just a transit point or the end of a Via Francigena stage; it’s a destination worth exploring in its own right. Trust us: you won’t regret it!

2.1 From Prehistory to the Romans

The Great St Bernard Pass has been in use since ancient times – there’s no doubt about it! Prehistoric artefacts have been discovered here, and numerous Roman remains have been unearthed in the area. In 12 BC, under Emperor Augustus, the first road and a temple dedicated to Jupiter were constructed, giving the pass its ancient name “Mont Joux”.

The Roman legacy is still visible on the Italian side of the pass. Traces of the ancient carriage road, expanded under Emperor Claudius in the mid-1st century AD, can still be seen along the final hairpin bends before the pass. For around 60 metres, the road is etched impressively into the rock, a valuable testament to the strategic importance of this location. It was a critical link to the northwestern provinces of the Empire and remained one of Europe’s most vital transit hubs for centuries.

2.2 The Hospice Through History

After the decline of the Roman era, the pass was abandoned. Its role and appearance changed forever in the 11th century, around 1045–1050, when Bernardo da Mentone, Archdeacon of Aosta, decided to build a shelter for the many pilgrims and travellers crossing the pass. These visitors often fell victim to the extreme weather conditions of this perilous place.

It’s hard to say whether Bernardo da Mentone could have imagined that his Hospice, run by the Canons, would serve uninterruptedly through the centuries, witnessing the changing seasons and the march of history. The Hospice became the stage for remarkable events, such as in 1800, when Napoleon and his 50,000 soldiers crossed the pass during the Second Italian Campaign. (Remember the famous equestrian portrait “Bonaparte Crossing the Alps” by Jacques-Louis David?) But that’s a story for another time…

2.3 From the 20th Century to Today

The story of the pass evolves further with the construction of the modern road (1893 on the Swiss side and only in 1905 on the Italian side) and the “Nouvel Hospice”. Built opposite the original hospice, the new structure became an “Auberge” (guesthouse) in 1925. This created two distinct forms of hospitality: paid accommodation for tourists arriving by car and free food and lodging for pilgrims. (To clarify, nowadays even pilgrim accommodation comes at a cost).

The opening of the Great St Bernard Tunnel in 1964 did more than simplify and speed up travel. It diverted commercial and transit traffic, returning a sense of tranquillity to the pass, which had grown crowded. This has allowed the pass to reclaim its original spirit, offering serenity to those who take their time exploring it.

3. Pass or Tunnel? Open or Closed? Let’s clear things up!

Pilgrims planning to cross the pass typically undertake this section of the route between early/mid-June and mid-October, avoiding the winter closure of the high-altitude road (SS27 in Italy, Route nationale 27 du Grand-Saint-Bernard or RN27 in Switzerland). For those who decide to walk the route during the months when the road is closed, there are two options:

• Cross the border by car or bus via the Great St Bernard Tunnel (which remains open year-round for vehicular traffic) and resume your journey on foot or by bike in the Aosta Valley.
• Venture up into the mountains to reach the Pass and the legendary Hospice, which is open 365 days a year to offer shelter to pilgrims, travellers, and snowshoe or ski trekkers.

If you fall into this second group – or if you’re simply curious – keep reading the following sections: you’re in the right place!

4. What to Expect in Summer

In summer, life at the Grand St Bernard Pass is lively, and the routine at the Hospice is animated by the comings and goings of various pilgrims and visitors. Many tourists, cyclists, and motorcyclists also make their way here. Some stop briefly to admire the lake and the stunning mountain scenery, while others take the opportunity to go trekking or trail-running along the many trails, visit the Hospice Museum, or enjoy walks with the St. Bernard dogs from the Fondation Barry, dedicated to these iconic Alpine companions. That’s right! The Saint Bernard breed’s name is no coincidence. But hold tight, we’ll tell you all about that later in the article!

Here are the main services available during the summer season (from early/mid-June to mid-October) when the state road is open:

On the Swiss side

• Hospice du Grand-Saint-Bernard
• Auberge de l’Hospice, including its bar, restaurant, and souvenir shop
• Great St Bernard Hospice Museum
• Café Restaurant Mont Joux
• Public transport bus stop
• Free car park

On the Italian side

• Colle del Gran San Bernardo Tourist Office, providing all the information you need about the Italian and Swiss regions
• Hotel Albergo Italia, including its bar and restaurant
• Bar Ristorante Du Lac
• Souvenir shops
• DINAclub e-bike charging station
• Public transport bus stop
• Free car park

5. What to Expect in Winter

The Great St Bernard in winter becomes unrecognisable… the photos leave no room for doubt!

Snow piles up month after month (with an average seasonal snowfall of 11 metres!), blanketing the mountains, the lake, and even the Hospice itself under a thick, white layer. Everything slumbers beneath this pristine mantle, creating the feeling of being in an enchanted place, cut off from the rest of the world. The area becomes virtually isolated, and there are only two ways to reach it: on foot (with snowshoes or skis) or by helicopter.

Amid this surreal silence, life at the Great St Bernard Hospice goes on, marked by arrivals, departures, meals, prayers, and moments of leisure and camaraderie.

The Hospice isn’t just a refuge for pilgrims – very few in winter – but transforms into a small community, frequented primarily by winter sports enthusiasts and ski mountaineers. Especially on weekends and during holiday periods, many visitors make their way here.

In the following sections, we’ll provide all the key information you need to plan your journey to the Great St Bernard in winter, whether as a pilgrim or a tourist.

6. How to plan your journey

6.1 How to get there

Most of the stops along the Via Francigena in the Valais are easily accessible from Italy all year round using public transport. The most convenient railway line is the Milan-Brig route (journey time < 2 hours). Once you reach Brig, local rail lines will take you to Martigny and Orsières. To reach Bourg-St-Pierre and Bourg-St-Bernard, you’ll need bus 210, which departs from Orsières.

Alternatively, from the Italian Aosta Valley, you can use the Swiss public bus service operated by TMR, which connects Martigny and Aosta.

6.2 The Stage: Technical Information

❗ First and foremost, it’s important to note that the Via Francigena corresponds to trail “Route 70” in Switzerland.

Setting off in summer. The stage leading to the Col du Grand Saint-Bernard is the 11th stage of the Via Francigena in Switzerland, starting from Bourg-St-Pierre. It’s a challenging stage: although it’s relatively short (just 12 km), it features an elevation gain of nearly 1,100 m and a descent of 220 m. While the trail itself is safe and does not pose major technical difficulties, it’s essential to remember that this is a high-altitude experience, requiring certain precautions even in good weather.

Be sure to equip yourself properly, monitor the weather carefully, and consider the possibility of sudden changes (you might even encounter rain – or snow! – at altitude). Start early in the morning to avoid afternoon thunderstorms, which are more frequent in summer. Be prepared to abandon the stage if conditions are not favourable. In such cases, you can use public transport or postpone the hike by a day.

Setting off in winter. For technical, logistical, and safety reasons, if you want to tackle Stage 11 in winter and reach the pass, you should start from Bourg-St-Bernard, a locality near the tunnel entrance, 6 km from Bourg-St-Pierre. This avoids the earlier section – prone to avalanche risks – and makes the journey shorter and more manageable. This is good news since you’ll need to undertake the hike with snowshoes or skis. The stage becomes 5 km long, with an elevation gain of around 540 m.

👉 For all technical information, see this link

6.3 Safety and critical points: Our Handbook

⚠️ Adventure, yes, but don’t underestimate the importance of safety! Next you will find our vademecum for organising your Great St Bernard hike in winter: please read it carefully! 🔎

#1 Don’t go alone!

Unless you’re an experienced mountaineer or ski mountaineer familiar with the area, you’ll need a local guide for this winter excursion. A guide will ensure you tackle the route safely. You can contact local tourist offices for the right contacts. Here’s a useful list of certified guides and companions curated by the Pays du St Bernard tourist office. For a list of guides on the Italian side, contact local tourist offices directly.

👉 CONSULT THE LIST OF CERTIFIED GUIDES

#2 Check the weather meticulously

This may seem obvious, but be sure to thoroughly check the weather forecast and avalanche bulletins. Here are some useful links to monitor weather and avalanche conditions:

conditions:

🌨️ Check the weather on MétéoSuisse 🌡️
🌨️ Check the weather on the Hospice website 🌡️

You can also confirm conditions by calling the Hospice directly: +41 27 787 12 36.

#3 Always carry an avalanche transceiver and shovel!

In addition to proper clothing, it’s crucial to have two essential tools for winter hikes: a shovel and an avalanche transceiver (DVA). These could save your life in the unfortunate event of an avalanche. We’ll cover this in more detail in the next section.

Before setting off, note down all the emergency numbers you may need. This golden rule applies to any trip!

#4 Account for all critical points on the route

If you plan to hike the Via Francigena in Switzerland in winter, be aware that even starting from Martigny, you may encounter challenges such as snow, ice (making the trail slippery), and avalanche risks in exposed areas. Here’s what we recommend:

• Avoid the section between Bovernier and Sembrancher, as the Via Francigena trail crosses several paths exposed to avalanche risks. A train can easily take you from one village to the other.
• Avoid the section between Bourg-Saint-Pierre and Bourg-Saint-Bernard, as the area near the Toules Dam can be dangerous. Use bus 210 to reach Bourg-Saint-Bernard.

#5 Last but not least… BOOK AHEAD! ✅

You might be surprised by how many people stay at the Hospice in winter – it’s such a unique place that visitor numbers in winter often rival those in summer. Don’t get caught out: call the Hospice well in advance to secure your spot. No other facilities are open on the Great St Bernard Pass in winter, so improvisation is not an option!

👉 YOU CAN BOOK HERE

6.4 Equipment and Clothing

Let’s start with your feet. To reach the Pass, most people use ski touring equipment with climbing skins. These are strips of fabric attached to the bottom of ski touring skis that allow them to glide in one direction only, enabling skiers to ascend slopes. Those who don’t know how to ski opt for snowshoes and poles. If the snow is hard-packed, you might attempt the ascent with good hiking boots, but ideally, you should have crampons to avoid sinking into the snow and poles to help maintain balance. These can be useful as early as Martigny if snowfall has reached lower altitudes.

👉 If you’re part of Team Snowshoes, you can find our tips for tackling a snowshoeing hike in this article!

Safety Essentials

As mentioned earlier, it’s good practice to carry two essential tools when heading to high altitudes: a shovel and an avalanche transceiver (DVA for French speakers, short for Détecteur de Victime d’Avalanche).

Other devices can also prove useful in mountain emergencies. Some backpacks, such as Ferrino’s Finisterre models, come equipped with an integrated RECCO® reflector, which can assist in locating an avalanche victim. However, the primary tool for detection remains the ARTVA, which is a must-have. Higher-end backpacks, designed for experienced mountaineers and ski tourers, include features like airbag systems or Air Safe technology.

If you’re not accustomed to winter mountain conditions and don’t own snowshoes/skis, a shovel, or an avalanche transceiver, contact local tourist offices for information on rentals or consult directly with your guide.

Clothing

The golden rule for dressing in the mountains is: layers! But make sure they’re warm layers, as temperatures on the pass rarely rise above 0ºC. During our adventure in mid-April, temperatures hovered around -10º/-8ºC.

Don’t underestimate the sun or the wind: sunglasses and sunscreen are essential. If we were to improve our own gear with hindsight, we’d suggest investing in highly effective windproof accessories, as the wind can be incredibly strong (and, needless to say, freezing! ❄️). Pay special attention to your extremities—not just hands and feet. Bring a headband or hat that fully covers your ears. Trust us, you’ll thank us in case of strong winds! 😉

And a useful tip: stay covered, but not too much! Make sure you can remove excess layers if needed, and invest in technical, breathable clothing. Even at -10ºC, a bit of effort can quickly turn into a sweaty and unpleasant experience.

Lastly, don’t forget to pack energising and filling snacks for breaks, like dried fruit, chocolate, bars, or even some hot tea in a thermos.

For more in-depth tips on clothing and gear, check out these posts on our blog:

• Hiking at high altitude: 5 tips for tackling the mountains in winter
• How to prepare your own first aid kit

6.5 The Ascent

Now that all the essentials are sorted, all that’s left is to enjoy the journey! Pace yourself, take time to steady your steps, look around, and breathe it all in. When will you get another chance like this?!

If you keep an eye out, you might spot life in the most unexpected places: we saw a white ermine hopping across the snow. It even stopped for a long moment to curiously watch us. There it was! ⬇️

If you’re not particularly fit, you’ll find it quite challenging. But let’s talk about the sense of accomplishment, shall we?! Along the ascent, you’ll come across two small shelters that provide safe rest stops for hikers and ski mountaineers. Inside, you’ll find everything you need for a cosy break and respite from the cold: a table, benches, a fireplace, and wood stoves. The phone inside can be used to contact the Hospice or call for help if needed. Some hikers leave food they don’t need: take some if you’re in need, or leave anything extra you may have. And don’t forget to make sure the door is securely closed when you leave!

Here’s how we planned our hike: after leaving the car in this parking lot, we walked with snowshoes (while Gaëtan skied) for about an hour before taking a break at the first shelter, where we snacked on dried fruit, energy bars, and hot tea from our thermos. After about 40 more minutes of climbing, we stopped at the second shelter for lunch – baguettes and delicious Swiss chocolate, of course! From there, it was about another 45 minutes to reach the final destination of our hike.

Upon arriving at the Hospice, we wasted no time. After notifying them of our arrival, we continued walking to catch a glimpse of the Italian side, adding a little extra effort by crossing the customs checkpoint just a short walk from the building. However, that side was more exposed, and the wind was truly fierce. We soon headed back to enjoy our well-earned rest, but more importantly, the magical atmosphere of the Great St Bernard Hospice in winter, which we’ll tell you about later in the article.

6.6 The Descent

The descent deserves a chapter of its own. It’s important to know that continuing towards the Aosta Valley along what would be the first stage of the Via Francigena in Italy is riskier than the route we just described. The Italian side is more exposed to avalanche risks. To decide the best way to organise your journey, we recommend discussing it with your guide.

If your plan is to head into Italy, here’s our suggested itinerary: ascending to the Col and staying overnight at the Hospice is a unique experience – so why not take it slow? We suggest adding an extra day to your itinerary, allowing you to organise your trip as follows: climb to the pass, stay overnight, then descend the same route the next day and continue to your next stop by bus, all in complete safety. This plan has a dual benefit: you can leave the bulk of your gear at your accommodation and tackle the ascent to the Great St Bernard Pass with a lighter backpack!

On our return, as we clumsily trudged through the fresh snow that had fallen overnight, we watched with a healthy dose of envy as Gaëtan, our beacon of hope, gracefully skied down the valley, stopping occasionally… only to wait for us. 🐌

7. Life at the Hospice

Shrouded in snow, silence, and an aura of solemnity and mystery, the Great St Bernard Hospice has been welcoming its guests every day of the year for over nine centuries. Inside, life moves at a different pace – not just different from the outside, where snow falls abundantly, but also from the rest of the world. Time here is marked by arrivals and departures, meals and prayers, the ringing of the bell, moments of leisure in the common room, and conviviality during meals. Needless to say, there is a palpable spirituality that leaves no one untouched.

The very first thing to do upon arrival is… take off your shoes, snowshoes, and skis, and slip into some comfy rubber slippers! (Imagine the state of the structure if all its guests wandered freely around in snowy boots!). On the lower floor of the Hospice, you can leave all your outdoor gear and, in true Cinderella fashion, find the perfect-fitting Crocs-style slipper!

You can then notify them of your arrival, check in, and finally – whichever order you prefer – sip a steaming cup of tea (offered free to all arriving travellers), change out of your damp clothes, take a hot shower, and collapse onto your bed. But not before setting it up with your sleeping bag liner (by the way, you can find our sleeping bag liner recommendations here).

Recharge your batteries… but not too much! Dinner at the Hospice is served quite early, and there will be plenty of time to rest. Instead, take the opportunity to explore the structure, and don’t forget to stamp your pilgrim’s passport in the excitement of the moment!

Discover the wooden common room – arguably one of the cosiest places on the planet – where you’ll find books, board games, pastimes, and most importantly, plenty of other travellers to chat with. Whether you’re a believer or not, we strongly encourage you to visit the chapel and attend mass, which takes place before dinner. For us, it was a truly moving moment, made even more special by the songs of a group of fellow travellers participating in the service.

Amid such a captivating atmosphere, it will be the sound of the bell – probably combined with the rumbling of your stomach – that brings you back to more earthly matters. It’s dinner time. At the Hospice, all meals are shared with the other guests at long communal tables. There’s no à la carte menu. No Instagrammable plating. Hot dishes are brought to the centre of the table in large pots and trays and served directly at the table, just like in a big family.

After the meal and a little more time in the common room, it’s time to rest and process the profound experience you’ve just lived, wrapped in the warm embrace of the blankets.

👉 For all practical information about the Hospice, you can visit the official website

8. The St Bernard Dogs

We can’t talk about the Great St Bernard Pass without mentioning the famous mountain rescue dogs. As promised, here’s the story that deeply links this breed to the Hospice and the Pass. The first dogs, which at the time were not identifiable as the current St Bernard breed, lived with the canons of the Hospice as early as the second half of the 1600s. They were likely gifted to the canons by the valley residents to help guard the property and carry loads. The first confirmed evidence of their presence at the Pass dates back to this era, as seen in a painting by Italian artist Salvator Rosa, which depicted a large molosser dog very similar to today’s St Bernard.

The role that made them famous worldwide, however, was that of mountain rescue dogs. The name “St Bernard dog” was first used to define this breed in 1862 and became universally adopted around 1880, with the first breed standard drafted in 1887. Visiting the museum’s exhibition at the Hospice will show you just how much the breed has changed over time!

In 2005, the Fondation Barry took over the kennel from the canons of the Great St Bernard, becoming the owner of the world’s oldest Saint Bernard breeding programme. Since then, about 30 pedigree dogs have been housed at the Foundation, a non-profit organisation that works to preserve the unique variety of the Hospice’s dogs and continue a breeding tradition that spans more than 300 years at its place of origin.

The breed’s most famous representative is a dog named Barry, who lived between 1800 and 1814 and saved the lives of nearly 40 people. It’s no surprise, then, that the Fondation Barry is named after him!

During the summer months, the Foundation’s dogs are “on holiday” at the Pass, in the kennel next to the museum. Here, visitors can join them for high-altitude treks to explore this beautiful region.

👉 Visit the Pays du St-Bernard tourist office page to discover all the activities you can enjoy with the most famous four-legged companions of the Alps!

For the rest of the year, you can learn more about this breed and its history by visiting the Fondation Barry, located in Martigny.

⚠️ Please note: As of January 2025, the Foundation is temporarily closed to the public for renovations, but it will reopen to welcome visitors next summer! 🐶

9. A taste of Valais

We’ve reached the end of our journey, but surely you’re not thinking of leaving Switzerland empty-handed or with an unfulfilled palate! Trekking along mountain paths is the perfect excuse to savour the region’s culinary delights, don’t you think? And on this front, the canton of Valais has a lot to offer! Below, you’ll find some gastronomic tips and a checklist of local specialities to try, which could also make perfect souvenirs for friends and family.

• Raclette. The undisputed queen of Valais and the quintessential local dish. Made from Valais Raclette cheese (PDO), which is raw milk cheese, it is melted to perfection. Raclette is traditionally accompanied by potatoes, gherkins, and pickled onions.
• Valais dried meat (PGI). The perfect protein-packed snack for a challenging hike!
• Valais rye bread (PDO). Combine this with the above, and voilà, your packed lunch is ready!

Now, onto sweets and alcoholic beverages:

• Swiss chocolate. We might be cliché, but isn’t it just delicious?! 🍫
• Valais wines. Did you notice the vineyards on the hills surrounding Martigny during your journey? You’re in Switzerland’s largest wine region, home to award-winning labels. Don’t miss the opportunity to indulge!
• Apricots. In all forms. One of the region’s highlights is its apricots, especially the Luizet variety. This particular fruit is used to produce the delicious Abricotine, a famous apricot kernel spirit. At restaurants, try it paired with apricot ice cream or sorbet. Be warned, it’s highly addictive! 🍑
• Williamine. Similar to Abricotine, but made with Williams pears.
• Saint Bernard Elixir. This famous herbal liqueur from the Great St Bernard was first created a century ago by a canon of the Hospice.

Our favourite spot? ❤️ Well, the Hospice, of course… but the Laiterie d’Orsières is a close second! We highly recommend it for an immersive Raclette experience! 🧀

We hope you have enjoyed this guidebook on the Great St Bernard Pass and its Hospice in winter, it’s inspired you to embark on this adventure!

For more information, visit the Via Francigena website or the Pays du St-Bernard tourist office!