After Apulia and Campania, we arrive at the third chapter of our travel diary, this time focusing on Southern Lazio, detailing the entire Via Francigena route in preparation for the Jubilee of 2025. 

With its 3,200 km, this historic medieval itinerary crosses five countries (England, France, Switzerland, Vatican City, and Italy), sixteen regions, and more than six hundred municipalities, as we explore in the path. Starting from Kent, in the United Kingdom, it passes through the Haute-de-France, Grand Est, and Bourgogne-Franche-Comté regions in France; the Vaud and Valais cantons in Switzerland; and the regions of Valle d’Aosta, Piedmont, Lombardy, Emilia-Romagna, Liguria, Tuscany, Lazio, Campania, and Puglia in Italy. Finally, in Rome, the Vatican State, the symbolic location of the Jubilee. 

For these special regional features, we have chosen to travel up the boot of Italy, narrating the Via Francigena from south to north, taking you with us to explore each region, immersing ourselves in its scenic, historical, and gastronomical treasures. Along the way, there will be plenty of travel tips on the route, highlighting the best stages and sharing some fascinating facts. 

Ready to join us on this journey? 

Let’s begin! 

The Via Francigena in southern Lazio represents the gateway to southern Italy, extending over 200 km, divided into 12 stages that traverse captivating landscapes of history and nature. The route begins in Rome, the endpoint for pilgrims from the north, and ends at Minturno, the first stop in Campania. This section of the Via Francigena South is a meeting point of history, spirituality, tradition, gastronomy, and legends. 

Spiritual history: leaving Rome and the start of the journey south 

Lazio, and in particular the city of Rome, is the beating heart of this ancient route. Rome was, and remains, the arrival point for many pilgrims who journeyed from Europe to reach Saint Peter’s tomb, but it is also the place where another significant part of the journey begins: the departure from the city and the start of the pilgrimage south. 

In the Middle Ages, pilgrimage and trade routes across Europe were vital and remained so until the advent of the railways in the 19th century. Santiago, Rome, and Jerusalem were the main centres in a network that connected cities, markets, and ports. The Via Francigena, which crosses the entire continent vertically, was not simply a route from Canterbury to Rome, but a true “highway”. 

Pilgrims leaving Rome for the south could choose different paths that generally converged at two important hubs: Capua and Benevento. From there, the most frequented route was the Appia Traiana, leading to the ports of Puglia: Siponto, Bari, Egnazia, Brindisi, Otranto, “finis Italiae.” The coastal cities of Puglia, such as Bari and Brindisi, were key ports for pilgrims heading to the Holy Land, a phenomenon that flourished until the 13th century, when sea travel became more common, with Venetian-controlled routes. 

Walking south, pilgrims leave the grandeur of the capital and enter a landscape rich in spirituality and history, marking a symbolic boundary between the central and northern worlds and the southern lands, rewarded by the many unforgettable monuments that can be admired along the way. The Via Francigena continues towards sacred and spiritual places, but also towards a series of landscapes that have long symbolised resistance and tradition. 

Iconic locations: the Appian Way, Terracina, Monte Circeo, and the Abbey of Fossanova 

The southern Lazio section of the Via Francigena is particularly rich in iconic locations that link ancient history with medieval spirituality. 

The Appian Way, one of the oldest and most famous Roman roads, is the first great symbol of this journey. A road that, for centuries, connected Rome to the southern regions of Italy, and remains today a place to walk and immerse oneself in the history of the Roman Empire and the spirituality of pilgrimage. 

It was designed in 312 BC by the censor Appius Claudius Caecus with the goal of creating a fast route between Rome and Capua, to facilitate troop movements during the Second Samnite War (326-304 BC). Later, the route was extended to the port of Brindisi, ensuring direct connections with Greece, the East, and Egypt, which was useful for military expeditions, travel, and trade. This extension made the Appian Way the “Queen of Roads” during the Roman era. 

Fun fact: “Domine, quo vadis?” 

Legend has it that along the Appian Way, during his escape from Rome to avoid Nero’s persecution, the apostle Peter met Christ and asked Him, “Domine, quo vadis?” – “Lord, where are you going?” – to which Jesus replied, “I am going to Rome to be crucified.” The apostle, repentant, turned back, marking one of Christianity’s most symbolic moments. To commemorate this, the Church of Domine Quo Vadis was built at the crossroads with the Via Ardeatina, 800 meters from Porta San Sebastiano, which remains a pilgrimage destination. 

Continuing along, the pilgrim reaches Terracina, a city located along the Tyrrhenian coast, between Rome and Naples, in the province of Latina. Its position, between the sea and the mountains, makes it particularly fascinating, with a perfect balance of history, culture, and natural beauty. 

Founded by the Volscians, Terracina boasts a long history spanning different periods, from ancient times to the Roman and medieval eras. In Roman times, the city was an important commercial and transit hub due to its location along the Appian Way. 

One of the main points of interest is the Temple of Jupiter Anxur, situated on top of a hill, offering a spectacular panoramic view of the city and the sea. The temple dates back to the 1st century BC and remains one of the most visited sites in the city. Additionally, the historic centre preserves significant remains from the Roman era, such as the forum and the Roman theatre, alongside traces of its medieval past, such as the Castle of Terracina, a fortification that highlights the city’s defensive role. 

Monte Circeo, another symbol of natural grandeur, rises majestically along the Lazio coast, within the Circeo National Park, linking the imagery of the journey south with mythology and local traditions. 

Fun fact: the Legend of Monte Circeo 

According to legend, Monte Circeo is the place where Circe, the sorceress from Homer’s Odyssey, transformed men into pigs, hence the origin of her name. The myth is still present in local traditions, where stories of Circe and her spells are passed down through generations. The silhouette of this mountain also resembles that of a woman lying down, symbolising the figure of the Sorceress. 

One of the most evocative places on the route is, without a doubt, the Abbey of Fossanova, which welcomes pilgrims with its monastic tranquillity and the beauty of its style. Located in the municipality of Priverno, in the province of Latina, Lazio, and founded in 1208, it is one of the main examples of Cistercian architecture in Italy. Its construction reflects the sobriety and functionality typical of the order, with a Gothic style that stands out for its essential elegance. The abbey is famous for its church, which features an impressive central nave and tall stained glass windows that allow light to flood the interior, creating a mystical and peaceful atmosphere. 

An additional fascinating aspect is the cloister, a large open space surrounded by elegant arcades, offering a sense of peace and contemplation. Inside, there are also numerous frescoes and sculptures, testifying to the artistic importance of the place. A significant aspect of the abbey’s history is its connection to Saint Thomas Aquinas, who died there in 1274, with his tomb located inside the church. 

Traditions: the ancient role of Rome as a departure point for pilgrimages 

Rome has always played a fundamental role in the history of pilgrimage, not only as the capital of the Roman Empire but also as the spiritual heart of Christianity. During the Middle Ages, it became one of the main departure points for pilgrimages to the Holy Land and other sacred places, such as Santiago de Compostela. Its significance was tied to the presence of the relics of saints and martyrs, particularly those of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, which attracted thousands of pilgrims in search of salvation, grace, or redemption. 

The city was therefore viewed as a key destination in the medieval pilgrimage journey, not only as the final goal but also as a starting point for many pilgrims heading towards Jerusalem. The Via Francigena, which started in Canterbury, England, traversed Europe to reach Rome before continuing south, always serving as a crossroads for travellers across the continent. 

This route was not only a physical journey but also a true spiritual voyage that united the Christian traditions of various countries, alongside the economic and military needs of the time. Rome acted as the hub for all pilgrims, who from there would head south, many travelling along the Via Appia – one of the most important roads in the Roman era – to reach the ports of Apulia and embark for other destinations. 

Gastronomy: roman-style artichokes and jewish-style artichokes, wines of the Castelli Romani and strawberries from Nemi 

The southern Lazio region is not only a place of history and spirituality but also a land rich in culinary traditions that reflect the local culture. The most iconic food of this region, which is the king of the Roman table and is even referred to as “the eighth wonder of Rome,” is the artichoke. Widely cultivated in Mediterranean regions, it was valued by the Ancient Egyptians for its beneficial and medicinal properties, and it was frequently used in the preparation of remedies. Although it’s unclear who first discovered this plant, it has certainly always been used in cooking, with legends telling of its use by the Ancient Greeks, or in rituals dedicated to Bacchus, where it was served with a fine glass of wine. 

What is certain is that, in Rome, there are primarily two ways to enjoy artichokes, which are often confused: carciofi alla giudia (Jewish-style artichokes) and carciofi alla romana (Roman-style artichokes). 

Carciofi alla giudia, which have their roots in Jewish cuisine, are prepared with plump artichokes, known as mammole or cimaroli. After cleaning them, the artichokes are cut with a knife to give them a rounded, rose-like shape and then immersed, upside down, in hot seed oil. Once removed, they are left to rest and then re-dipped in the oil for a second fry, resulting in a deliciously crispy texture. 

This recipe is said to have been prepared in Rome’s Jewish ghetto between 1555 and 1870 to celebrate Pesach, the Jewish Passover, which coincided with the harvest season for this vegetable. 

Carciofi alla romana are prepared with the same type of artichokes and similar ingredients, though they include garlic, parsley, and mint, which are chopped and placed inside the artichoke. The artichokes, flipped over, are then slow-cooked in a mix of oil and water. 

Two specialties that no pilgrim should miss along the way! 

As was the custom in Ancient Rome, each artichoke should be paired with a glass of fine wine. In Lazio, the wines of the Castelli Romani – an area known for its ancient wine tradition – pair perfectly with local dishes. We recommend visiting one of the many fraschette, the typical taverns of the region, along the route, where you can sample all the Roman specialties and, why not, finish the meal with the famous wine biscuits! 

Finally, we must mention the sweetness of the strawberries from Nemi, a fruit that thrives in this land, with a unique and unmistakable taste, symbolising a fertile and bountiful region rich in natural products. These strawberries are so prized that they have earned their own festival, the Sagra delle Fragole, held every year in Nemi since 1922, on the first Sunday of June, to celebrate the start of the harvest season. 

Fun fact: the legend of the strawberries of Nemi 

It is said that these strawberries were born from the tears of Venus, who wept for the death of Adonis. They were later transformed into small red hearts. It is also believed that they had magical powers, such as the ability to drive snakes away from the forests. 

Ideas for walks during a long weekend or short break 

2025 is shaping up to be the ideal year to rediscover the joy of slow travel and sustainable tourism, thanks to the holidays that will provide numerous long weekends, as we have seen here. For those wishing to experience history, nature, and spirituality, the Via Francigena in Lazio is the perfect choice. 

2-Day Itinerary (Rome – Velletri) 

Day 1: From Rome to Castel Gandolfo, starting from St. Peter’s Square in the Vatican City, where pilgrimages often end, walk 26 km towards Castel Gandolfo. Leaving the city behind, follow the Roman cobblestones, passing ancient sites such as the Tomb of Geta, the Tomb of Priscilla, and the Mausoleum of Cecilia Metella. The route leads to Frattocchie, then leaving the consular road, head towards Castel Gandolfo, the papal summer residence. 

Day 2: On the second day, set off on a 21.3 km journey from Castel Gandolfo to Velletri. The route passes through a dense forest area surrounding Lake Albano, with ancient buildings along the way. The second part of the journey leads through Nemi, the strawberry town, where, if in season, you can taste this local delicacy. Then continue towards Clivo Formello, and after 5 km, head towards Velletri. 

3-Day Itinerary (Rome – Cori) 

Day 1: From Rome to Castel Gandolfo 

Day 2: Castel Gandolfo to Velletri 

Day 3: If you have an extra day, extend your weekend by walking 18.8 km from Velletri to Cori. After leaving the town, follow a path near Lake Giulianello, passing the town of Giulianello. Continue towards Colle Illirio, where you will find the ancient town of Cori and the magnificent Temple of Hercules, dating back to 89-80 B.C. and in Doric style, the highlight of this stretch. 

5-Day Itinerary (Fossanova Abbey – Minturno) 

Day 1: From Fossanova Abbey to Terracina, a 20 km route, currently under maintenance, with an alternative path available here. The star of the day is certainly Fossanova Abbey, located in Priverno, built between 1163 and 1208, it is an example of early Italian Gothic architecture. Its name comes from a cloaca (drain) that existed at the origins of the small village. 

Day 2: From Terracina, head through Piazza Palatina, passing a stretch of the Appian Way and then 2 km of dirt road, until reaching Monte San Biagio. Descend to the Monastery of San Magno, a place of historical significance dating back to the 6th century, which pilgrims should not miss. The route ends in Fondi after 22 km, where you can relax in the town centre or visit the Caetani Baronial Castle. 

Day 3: From Fondi to Itri, 15 km of moderate difficulty. Once there, don’t miss the churches of San Michele Arcangelo, the Church of the Annunciation, and the Convent of San Francesco, as well as the Sant’Andrea Gorges, one of the most picturesque and best-preserved stretches of the Ancient Appian Way. 

Day 4: From Itri to Formia, a 21 km route. This town, with its medieval district “Castellone,” is home to various churches, gates of the ancient city walls, and Roman ruins. Other points of interest include the cylindrical tower, the archaeological museum, and Cicero’s tomb. 

Day 5: From Formia to Minturno, 19.8 km, entering Campania. After 4 km, venture right towards the Gianole and Monte di Scauri Regional Natural Park, continuing into the coastal region of Scauri – Minturno, famous for its stunning beaches. After passing Marina di Minturno, follow the Garigliano River, then visit the archaeological area of the ancient Minturnae, before crossing the river into Campania. 

Some Tips 

1. Prepare Your Equipment  

• Hiking Boots: The choice of footwear is crucial, especially for long distances. Opt for robust and comfortable boots with good breathability and ankle support. Lightweight trekking shoes are ideal for longer routes. A tip: the heavier your backpack, the more important it is to choose shoes with high ankle support to prevent strain. Here some ideas form our partner Garmont.  

• Backpack: Choose a comfortable, not too heavy backpack. Ensure it has adjustable straps and proper ventilation. It’s crucial not to overload it—aim for a weight that is 10-15% of your body weight and pack only the essentials. You can find them here, from our partner Ferrino.  

• Clothing: Wear breathable, comfortable, and lightweight clothes. Depending on the season, pack a waterproof jacket for protection from rain or wind, and a hat or cap for sun protection. If you want here.  

• Trekking Poles: These are very useful for reducing strain on your knees, especially on uphill or downhill stretches. Here they are. 

2. Plan Your Stages and Itineraries  

• Distance and Time: Each day of walking covers distances ranging from 15 to 25 km. If you are not used to long walks, start with shorter stages. A good idea is to complete the itinerary over several days, depending on your fitness level.  

• Where to Stay: Along the route, you’ll find numerous accommodation options, such as hostels, B&Bs, agriturismos, and convents. In some places, you can also stay in pilgrim refuges. It’s recommended to book in advance, especially during peak seasons (spring and summer).  

• How to Reach the Region: There are many ways to reach Campania, but not all are eco-friendly or low-impact. To support your Via Francigena journey, we suggest taking the FlixBus or Trenitalia trains, both of which offer a 10% discount for holders of the official Pilgrim Credential.  

• Flexibility: Not all stages are of the same difficulty level. Be flexible and, if necessary, adapt to the situation. Remember that the journey is not a race but a personal and spiritual discovery.  

• Guidebook: To avoid any issues, we recommend carrying a guidebook, such as The Via Francigena in the South by Sandy Brown or La Via Francigena nel Sud by Terre di Mezzo, which offer detailed itineraries and helpful tips for navigating the journey smoothly.   

• Credential: Every proper pilgrim carries one. Here is the official Via Francigena Credential, an essential companion to take along the route. It allows you to benefit from discounts, track your progress with official stamps from localities, and enjoy other privileges. 

3. Safety and Health  

• Water and Snacks: Always carry at least 2 litres of water with you. Some stages of the walk may not have easy access to water sources, so it’s important to refill at key stops. Don’t forget to bring energy snacks like dried fruit, cereal bars, and nuts.  

• Sun Protection: The sun in southern Italy can be very intense, especially in summer. Use a high-SPF sunscreen, sunglasses, and a hat.  

• Rest: Listen to your body. Take breaks and rest when necessary. Muscles and joints may suffer during the walk, so it’s important to take moments for recovery. 

This article was published as part of the project: Fondo Sviluppo e Coesione – Piano Sviluppo e Coesione, under the ownership of the Italian Ministry of Culture (Card 33 – Via Francigena – Cross-cutting actions. Transmission of the project card “Communication and Promotion Plan”).